Written by Aleksandra Agranovich
How to Build a Skin Care Routine
Building you own skin care routine may seem challenging, but with all the resources and products that we have available on the market today, it can be done in no time. Taking care of your skin is extremely important, both for your body and your soul. Determining what type of products to use generally depends on your own, individual skin type. The goal of any skin care routine is to make sure that your skin feels right, bright, and healthy. Choosing a skin care routine involves three to five steps that may range from a daily facial cleanser, a moisturizer, a toner, some sunscreen and possibly a serum. So how do you start?
Step 1: Cleanser
Choosing the right cleanser is quite possibly the most important and basic step in any skin care routine. Every day, our skin comes in contact with environmental pollutants, dirt, germs, and Earth’s elements. Washing your face twice a day can help to avoid clogged pores, rid the skin of harsh chemicals, and prevent acne, blackheads, and eczema. Skin cleansers can exist as foaming liquids, creams and lotions, oils, melting balms, and micellar water. The right cleansing formula will clean your skin without stripping it of its essential oils.
Step 2: Moisturizer
Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. We hear it all the time… But what does this mean exactly and why is it so important?
Moisturizing your skin can rehydrate, soften, and rejuvenate the naturally found ceramides within the skin. As we age, it becomes difficult for our skin to retain moisture in the natural sense. Therefore, the sooner we start using moisturizers, the healthier our skin will feel and look. Moisturizers depend solely on your skin type. Whether you have dry, oily, normal, inflamed or sensitive skin, there is a moisturizer out there that will fit your needs.
Creams that are applied in the morning tend to protect the skin from environmental factors throughout the day. Nighttime creams, on the other hand, are meant to replenish and repair dry skin as a result of cellular turnover and environmental damage.
Step 3: Sunscreen
We’ve all heard of how terrible UV rays can be… and we hate to admit it, but it’s the truth. Skin cancer, due to ultraviolet radiation, is one of the most common forms of cancer in the world. But here’s a fun fact! It is completely and totally preventable. How, you might ask? Sunscreen.
Although it sounds super annoying, dermatologist recommend that we wear sunscreen all year round (yes… even in the winter months). Sunscreen is a crucial skin-care product, despite the fact that it too, is made from chemicals. Using a daily moisturizer with a built-in broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 is highly recommended. Appling your sunscreen at least thirty minutes prior to sun exposure will prevent skin cancer.
Step 4: Toners and Serums
Toners and serums? Well these guys are optional… It truly depends on how into the whole “daily-skin-care-routine” you are. In the past, toners mainly consisted of alcohol-based products that would dry up the skin and remove dirt particles (which wasn’t very healthy). Today, toners are composed of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, hyaluronic acid, collagen, rose water and green tea extracts, and a variety of vitamins. To tell you the truth though, most of these particles are too large to pass through our skin barrier anyways. Unless you want to take that extra step to look and feel good about your skin, toners are not necessarily that important.
Serums, on the other hand, are composed of concentrated ingredients and work more like elixirs that focus to mitigate dark spots and wrinkles. Serums can be applied daily or nightly, but truth be told, they are very expensive, and you probably won’t see results immediately. Think of it as a preventive “aging” measure.
Example of a Daily Skin Care Routine
Step 1: Cleanser
· CeraVe Foaming/Hydrating Facial Cleaner
Step 2: Moisturizer
· CeraVe daily Moisterizing lotion
Step 3: Sunscreen
· CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30+
Step 4 (optional): Toner or Serum
· CeraVe Hydrating Toner (removes oil, dirt, makeup, impurities, etc.)
· CeraVe Retinol Serum (reduced fine lines and wrinkles)
**Note: These are just a few examples. There are thousands of products available for different types of skin. It just takes trial and error to find the right ones…
Resources
Molvar, Kari. “How to Build a Skin Care Routine.” The New York Times, The New York Times,
https://www.nytimes.com/guides/tmagazine/skincare-routine
Creating a Daily Skincare Routine
There are a variety of skincare routines that exist for dry, combination, or oily skin, which include a plethora of cleansers, moisturizers, toners, serums, sunscreens, eye creams, anti-aging products, the list goes on. The practice of an elaborate, comprehensive skincare routine is oftentimes promoted by the cosmetic industry and heavily advertised via social media platforms regarding its efficacy. However, there exists a lack of clinical evidence in supporting this extensive routine over the use of a single skin care product. This does not go to say that a skincare routine serves no beneficial purpose, but it is important that consumers are aware that when it comes to beauty and cosmetic companies, it is not uncommon that these industries exploit society's insecurities, especially that of women, in order to make profit. Using products that are clinically proven to be safe and effective will help optimize and individualize one’s skincare routine. An effective skincare routine incorporates products that protect the skin barrier, prevent UV damage and premature aging, cleanse the skin from debris buildup and excess sebum, and contain moisturizing properties.
Skincare products are categorized as either cosmetics or FDA-approved actives, which include drugs available as OTC or prescription. According to chapter VI of the 1938 Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act, cosmetics are defined as “articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions.” It is important to note that cosmetic products and its ingredients do not require FDA premarket approval (the exception is color additives). On the other hand, OTC skincare products are FDA-approved and contain active ingredient(s) that may alter the structure or function of the skin. A youthful, healthy looking complexion is dependent on the conditions of both the epidermis and dermis, the density and quality of the extracellular matrix, cell distribution in the connective tissues, the appearance of cornified cells at the surface of the skin, and the variation in the skin’s natural fluorescence. The skin’s physiology is also impacted by individuals suffering from skin conditions, such as acne, hyperpigmentation, xerosis, and psoriasis. Thus, incorporating OTC products and/or cosmetic products in one’s skincare regimen play a critical role in restoring dermatologic health and appearance.
Cleanser
Selecting the appropriate cleanser depends on the individual’s skin type: dry, combination, or oily. Cleansers serve to remove debris buildup, excess sebum, and in some cases, makeup. There are FDA-approved cleansers that contain active ingredients for the purpose of restoring the skin’s barrier function, however, most cleansers do not. There are a variety of formulas on the market designed for one’s skin type, such as cream, water-based, and gel vehicles. For those with oily complexions, gel-based and bar cleansers are optimal. In contrast, cream or lotion-based ones are preferred in those with normal to dry skin. As stated prior, selection of the best product, in this case –cleanser– involves clinical testing on safety and efficacy.
Moisturizer
Another product that plays a significant role in one’s skincare regimen is moisturizer. Moisturizers contain humectant and occlusive agents. Humectants include hyaluronic acid, urea, and allantoin, which draw water from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer in order to provide moisture. They are present in the water phase of a formula. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, mineral oil, and lanolin, which act as a barrier to transepidermal water loss and help with moisture retention. They are present in the oil phase of a formula. Lightweight gels, lotions, and serums are oil-in-water formulations and are most suitable for normal to dry skin. Ointments or creams are water-in-oil formulations and are most suitable for very dry skin that needs superior hydration.
Sunscreen
One of the most common skin damages is unprotected ultraviolet (UV) exposure from the sun. Thus, it is recommended that all individuals wear sunscreen daily with the use of agents that contain active ingredients, zinc oxide or avobenzone, since it can block out both ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B. Sunscreen is categorized as OTC drugs and must undergo safety and efficacy testing and meet strict labeling requirements. The mandatory final step of every skincare regimen should be sunscreen. Not only does it prevent sunburns and UV damage, but it also prevents sun-induced premature aging.
Miscellaneous
Exfoliators
Epidermal cell turnover rate slows down with age which leads to the accumulation of dead keratinocytes in the stratum corneum and follicular ostia. As a result, the skin may lose its radiance and appear rough and dry. Current exfoliators available on the market are either chemical or physical. Common chemical exfoliators on the market include glycolic, lactic, and malic acids (known as α-hydroxy acids (AHAs)), and salicylic acid (a β-hydroxy acid). They are available OTC, however higher concentrations require professional administration. To reduce the risk of burning and irritation, concentrations generally range from 7%-10% and a pH above 3.5. Physical exfoliators are available as topical cleansing scrubs containing abrasive solid particulates, mechanical facial brushes, and micro exfoliating rollers. The purpose of either physical or chemical exfoliators is to remove excess corneocyte buildup and stimulate cell turnover, yielding a more radiant and smoother skin surface.
Retinoids
Advanced age may result in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and changes in skin firmness. Intrinsic aging involves thinning of the epidermis and dermis due to the slowing of keratinocyte and fibroblast replication. Further, there is a decrease in glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin with increased age, thereby resulting in dermal thinning. To mitigate these effects, tretinoin topical prescription therapy, a synthetic form of vitamin A, is used to redensify the extracellular constituents through collagen and glycosaminoglycans upregulation. Its use promotes skin elasticity and firmness and improves photoaged skin through stimulating dermal collagen synthesis and angiogenesis. Expected side effects upon use, however, include pruritus, application site irritation, peeling, and erythema. Nonprescription forms are also available as retinol, but are less potent and less effective.
In conclusion, one of the basic components of a skincare routine should include the selection of an appropriate cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. The product choice is dependent on the individual’s skin type (dry, normal, combination, oily), age, primary skin conditions (if any), skin concerns, and goals. Clinically proven and tested products are the most optimal and reliable in one’s skincare regimen that will maximize dermatologic outcomes.
References
Rodan, Katie, et al. “Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare.” Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Global Open, 14 Dec. 2016, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5172479/.